Auto Gearbox oil change.

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Auto Gearbox oil change.

Postby jon321wl » Thu 18 Feb 2010 5:14 pm

Thank you all for your advice on the anti roll bar connector, all done and quiet as a mouse. Next job is change the gearbox oil. Haines manual says don't do it and take it to Land Rover Dealer............. Right, shall I ignore themand do it, how do I do it, and is it mega hard? God I'm a pest aren't I? Jonny the annoying carrot crunching Norfolk Pudding!!!!!!!!!!!!
[b][size=150]Will one day settle down and find my perfect vehicle, until then I'll carry on filling the drive with everything LAND ROVER[/size][/b]
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Postby discool » Thu 18 Feb 2010 6:16 pm

Look at this link and make up your own mind, looks easy to me. http://www.difflock.com/servicing/ZF-au ... ange.shtml
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Previously for 10 years: 1987 Range Rover Vogue Efi auto.
Previously for 2 years 1985 TVR 350i manual.

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Re: Auto Gearbox oil cahnge.

Postby thebiglad » Thu 18 Feb 2010 8:10 pm

jon321wl wrote:Thank you all for your advice on the anti roll bar connector, all done and quiet as a mouse. Next job is change the gearbox oil. Haines manual says don't do it and take it to Land Rover Dealer............. Right, shall I ignore themand do it, how do I do it, and is it mega hard? God I'm a pest aren't I? Jonny the annoying carrot crunching Norfolk Pudding!!!!!!!!!!!!



Piece of cake to do matey. You'll need at least 10 ltrs of Dexron IID or III, or your choice of autobox oil.

Go for a run in the vehicle to warm up the oil before emptying the old stuff and leave it to empty a long time 30 mins min..

You know you need to do it twice don't you? with an interval of 500mls between oil changes.
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Re: Auto Gearbox oil cahnge.

Postby Ritch » Fri 19 Feb 2010 1:09 am

jon321wl wrote:Thank you all for your advice on the anti roll bar connector, all done and quiet as a mouse. Next job is change the gearbox oil. Haines manual says don't do it and take it to Land Rover Dealer............. Right, shall I ignore themand do it, how do I do it, and is it mega hard? God I'm a pest aren't I? Jonny the annoying carrot crunching Norfolk Pudding!!!!!!!!!!!!


Do it, its a piece of doddle.

It's a while since I had my Auto and this was one of the first jobs I did but iirc you can't drain the oil from the torque converter which I think retains about 4 ltrs. I swapped out the oil first then did a few hundred miles like big says. After this I drained again (new stuff has diluted the old a bit by then) , then dropped the bottom off the box to change the filter.

Only word of caution is don't get any [rusty outrigger] in the box when you have the bottom off but you'd be hard pushed to really!

I never understood why haynes suggest not to do it? But don't they say the same about changing the foglight bulbs as well?????

strange?
Disco 1 V8 ES on gas - I sold it for some bizarre reason?
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Postby paintman » Fri 19 Feb 2010 9:50 am

Ashcrofts do comment that they see a number of autoboxes playing up after a fluid change which they attribute to the detergent effect of the new fluid stirring up the fine deposits in the box which then block passages.

As already said, the TC retains a lot of fluid & its worth checking the quantity you get out before just bunging in the amount shown in the manual!
The seal on the box sump is a rubber gasket & the Britpart labelled kits seem to be slightly undersize so may need a bit of careful stretching to enable it to stay in place when fitting without reaching for the glue!
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Postby thebiglad » Fri 19 Feb 2010 11:20 am

"We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs."

That is Ashcrofts current take on the subject. I have done many autobox oil changes, but have never changed a filter. I don't believe there is a the same need to do so as for example, an engine oil filter, where there are combustion products in the oil which need to be filtered.

I have had no troubles with any of the 'boxes I've worked on - so you can only speak as you find.
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Postby paintman » Fri 19 Feb 2010 1:20 pm

That's been their take for some years. As a gearbox specialist they are likely to see FAR more failures/dicky boxes than the average garage or DIY-er.

No other part of the box is touched when changing the filter as you only need to unbolt the sump & undo the bolts that retain the filter & pickup tube - and those parts are easily cleaned - so TBH I don't think it makes a lot of difference whether you just drain & replace the fluid or renew the filter (although with the latter you then know there is nothing left in or on those parts that could cause trouble) as any debris likely to be stirred up will be lurking further in the box.

It is worth changing the filter as many autobox faults are down to blocked or restricted filter & its a good place to start if yours is playing up. But if the filter is that blocked it would suggest that there is a lot of stuff floating around in the box to begin with & that isn't good news!

BTW, if you do replace an autobox after a failure you must renew the TC as it wil also be full of contaminated fluid & bits from the box. Its a good idea to replace the fluid cooler & pipe work to stop any debris from the failure contaminating the new box, but if you don't at LEAST throughly flush the cooling system.
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Postby Dave88 » Sat 20 Feb 2010 10:00 pm

I only ever change the oil (every year), never done the filter in 50,000 miles. About 4 1/2 to 5 litres comes out, put the same back in. Get a long thin funnel to put new oil in through the dipstick hole.
Note the min to max on the dipstick is only 250 ml.
Don't overtighten the drain plug.
Easy job - for once!
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Postby Urban Panzer » Sun 21 Feb 2010 2:29 am

Well all I can say is this.............

Do you change your engine oil without doing the filter ? I bet you dont, so why leave the gearbox one alone which imo is a LOT more critical to the smooth operation of the box.

You only have to look at the pictures on my web write up on the D2 autobox oil change to see how dirty the filter was. "Imo" without changing the filter your actually making the problem "worse" in certain respects, as you simply cannot change all the oil, so you add / top up with new stuff, which as discussed is detergent based which "cleans" more crud out the box, so if your "old" filter is already dirty etc, then more dirt builds up and will eventually start to restrict oil flow, or build up in the governor and cause shift issues.
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