Video of TD5 engine removal.

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Video of TD5 engine removal.

Postby ridgeback » Wed 25 Oct 2017 7:00 pm

Hi guys, does anyone know of a video showing how to correctly remove a TD5 defender engine? Dont want one of those speeded up arnt I a great mechanic videos, would likeone I can refer to if I get a bit confused about what order to do things as Ive only done a 2.5 na and a 2.25 series. Unfortunately the haynes manual is pretty useless. The RAVE TD5 supliment is much better but would still like something to look at rather than a description.
Has anyone used A&B landrover Market Weighton (york) for a rebuild, any feedback welcome.
Last question ive had feedback that recon heads never work very well. Might be because they are trying to fit them in the engine bay and not with the block on a bench. Trying to decide whether to stump up the extra and get a new Gasflowed AMC Santana head
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Re: Video of TD5 engine removal.

Postby pedro sonntag » Mon 13 Nov 2017 2:48 pm

Hope I´m not too late. This is not a video, but I found it very useful:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-and ... y-way.html
Important detail: if you have A/C, don´t empty the A/C circuit. Just put the A/C compressor aside, as shown in the pics.
130 Td5 with detachable camper cabin
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Re: Video of TD5 engine removal.

Postby ridgeback » Tue 14 Nov 2017 10:02 am

Thanks pedro
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Re: Video of TD5 engine removal.

Postby ridgeback » Thu 23 Nov 2017 7:32 pm

Engine out and off for a rebuild. Used the RAVE workshop manual and actually it was easier than I had anticipated.
Only a couple of minor issues:
1) the two bolts holding the front valance to the wing sheared on one side (hoping I can wind the stubs out with a pair of mole grips and some heat but if not has anyone managed to get the plate for the captive nuts on the plate out from inside the wing as there doesn't look like much space in there to get at it)
2) sheared a couple of exhaust manifold bolts, no big issue as the head is getting rebuilt and can have some new studs put in
3) casing around each of the glow plug leads was perished and didn't come away in one piece on a couple of plugs and a replacement loom is stupid money so I am going to have to do a 'local' repair with some shrink rubber sleeving and
4) the stupid one getting ahead of myself i didn't remove the crank case sensor from the bell housing before separating the engine despite the RAVE saying I had to! don't know if its screwed but if I buy an aftermarket sensor its about £20 not upwards of £500 for OEM.
Overall quite pleased.
Watch this space for putting it all back together when I get the re engineered engine back.
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